Hindsight is 20/10

In September of 2000 I traveled alone to Jerusalem, just prior to the second Intifada.  My plan was to stay in The Old City, rent a car and take day excursions throughout Israel and Palestine.  I’d read that if I rented from a Palestinian agency I wouldn’t be able to drive freely through Israel.  I’d also read that if I rented from an Israeli agency I might have rocks pelted at my car in parts of the West Bank.  I decided to rent from an Arab-Israeli company, which seemed fairly neutral.

 

I stayed in an old Armenian hospital that had been converted into a small hotel, just inside the Damascus Gate.  I took day excursions as far south as Masada and as far North as The Golan Heights, stopping everywhere in between.  Driving was lively and I lost my way on every trip, usually ending up where I’d planned, often where I didn’t.  At one point on my drive north I took a wrong turn and ended up on a dirt road that bordered Syria.  There were yellow triangle signs with writing and exclamation points, but I couldn’t read Hebrew.  When I finally realized the magnitude of my error the road was too narrow to turn around, and I didn’t want to drive off of it for fear of land mines.  I drove in reverse for about a mile.  When I made it back onto the highway I was stopped by a military vehicle and told that I needed to leave the area immediately, with which I earnestly agreed.  Upon returning to Jerusalem and parking my car I wandered through the Old City and lost my way again, only this time on foot.  The only tourists who seemed more lost than I were the endless lines of Christian cross-bearing pilgrims, following what they believed to be the route that Jesus had walked to Golgotha.  The correct route I had been told was actually through the butchers market on the other side of the city.

 

I’m not religious and can’t explain why I chose this specific destination.  I wasn’t looking for anything in particular, just fascinated by the region itself, and the extreme and seemingly surreal intensity that surrounds it.  What I did find was that profound experience while traveling alone is still profound, but can also be lonely.  I honestly thought it would be good for me to go away and miss my family.  In the end it was and I did.  On my next adventure however, I brought them along.

JerusalemStilts